Walking out of Asok BTS train station yesterday I noticed that the hole in the ground next to the Sukhumvit MRT subway station has grown a building. For about 18 months it seemed like all they were doing there was digging the biggest hole they could manage, and now, suddenly there is an erection rising about 20 stories.
This follows the opening of the Millenium Building across the street a little more than a year ago. Is that the ugliest building in Bangkok?! It looks like it was designed to be a prison.
A block or two further east the sign saying that the Crown Plaza will be opening in early 2008 looks like it might need to be replaced. In spite of putting in a little ductwork for the ventilation system in the lower floors, the building looks to be no more than about half complete. I suspect it’ll be 2009 or close to it before they are ready to open.
A bar owner friend of mine has talked a lot recently about how the development of high rise office buildings, condos and shopping centers is pushing out the types of places that give Bangkok ‘character’. He talks about the death of bars, restaurants, markets and the like.
I take a slightly different view based on my decade of living in Sydney. Part of City Planning is that train stations create clusters of high value real estate and high density development. What we are seeing with Bangkok isn’t a destruction of the character venues, but a re-location. When I commented that a lot of the businesses were moving east on Sukhumvit, my bar-owner friend commented that those moves were driven by lower rents. My point exactly! The train system is great for everyone, and expanding it will continue to improve Bangkok, but the infrastructure of a train system will force changes on the city landscape.
One small example. I used to enjoy shooting pool for free in the afternoons at Country Road Bar on Soi 19. A few months ago it closed down so that the building could be torn down, and a large hole dug in the ground where they will plant another new high rise. I’m sorry to lose the bar, but really… you can’t let that kind of real estate sit underutilized when it’s spitting distance from a train station.
The intersection at the corner of Asok Road and Sukhumvit Road, where the BTS and MRT lines intersect has seen one new building open on the Southeastern corner, the construction of a building on the Northeastern corner, the demolition of all the existing buildings on the Northwestern corner in preparation for future construction. It won’t stop there. How long can the 3-story bars of Soi Cowboy survive sitting 30 meters from the entrance to the MRT subway line? It’s not a matter or weeks or months, but the clock must be ticking somewhere.
Does it mean that Bangkok’s famous nightlife will disappear. Maybe, but I don’t think so. It’ll just slowly relocate, driven by economics. Was Nana Plaza the center of farang naughty nightlife 20 years ago? There’s a reason why strip joints end up locating near the low rent neighborhoods like airports more often than in the heart of the city and major business districts.
The BTS and MRT have changed the scenery in Bangkok. Suhumvit Road isn’t the Road east out of the city anymore… it’s the heart of the city — at least as far as transportation is concerned. As the train system expands over the next three years and beyond, Bangkok will change with it.
And it’s not just naughty night life that’s affected. Can the Suan Lum night bazzaar continue to take up valuable space on Rama 4 road serviced by the Lumpini MRT Station at it’s front door? There was an attempt a year ago to close this tourist haven and replace it with a high rise condo & office complex. I’d be horrified to see that happen, but it’s probably inevitable.
Bangkok is changing.
It’s a city that has had meteoric growth over the past dozen years, and the government has been wise to do things like building rail links, a new airport, and to increase capacity for electric generation and other infrastructure. It’s a fun city to live in, and it’s got everything you need to live a comfortable lifestyle. In my opinion, the elements that make it a fun place to live aren’t going to just disappear, but they may move around a little bit.
By the way, I got a couple of these photo from a forum that was written in Thai, but had some fascinating photos and (lower down in the forum) some detailed diagrams of how they build the skytrain system. Unless you read Thai you won’t be able to read it, but the photos and the diagram are largely self-explanatory. Here’s the link:
http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?p=17425004
Here’s an interesting list copied from a different thread in the skyscrapercity forum:
3. THE MET, 69 Storey : Sathorn
4. Amanta Lumpini, 61+38 Storey : Rama IV
6. Ratchada Towers, 60+54 Storey : Ratchada
8. Central World Hotel, 57 Storey : Sukhumvit-Rajprasong
9. THE PANO, 57 Storey : Rama III
10. WaterMark, 53+28 Storey : Rama III-Riverside
12. Millennium Residence, 53+53+50+50 Storey : Sukhumvit-18
16. The Regency, 52+52+32+32 Storey : Ratchada
20. L&H Hotel Ratchadamri, 49 Storey : Sukhumvit-Ratchadamri
21. Regent Hotel & Residences, 48+35 Storey : Sukhumvit-13
23. Ritz Carlton Hotel and Residence, 45+12 Storey : Sukhumvit-Ratchadamri
25. The Empire Place, 45 Storey : Sathorn
26. Hansa Residence, 45 Storey : Ratchadamri
27. 159 Ratchadamri Road, 45 Storey : ratchadamri
28. Sri Ayudhya Commercial Complex (Tentative Name), 45+38 Storey : Sri-Ayudhya
30. Oceanos, 43+42 Storey : Rama III
32. The Column, 42+10 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
34. The Emporio Place, 42+36+21 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
37. The Ideal24, 41 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
38. Atthenee Place, 41 Storey : Wireless Road
39. UBC Tower III, 40 Storey : Sukhumvit-35
40. Sathorn Grand Mansion, 40 Storey : Sathorn
41. Atthenee Residence, 40 Storey : Sukhumvit-Wireless Road
42. Grand Setthiwan II, 40+25 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
44. Jamjuree Square, 40+26 Storey : Rama IV-Silom
46. The Infinity, 40 Storey : Sathorn
47. The Embrace Phayathai, 40 Storey : Phayathai
48. Ocean Insurance Towers, 39+38 Storey
50. JC Towers, 39+37 Storey : Sathorn
52. Pratunam Center, 39+39+34 Storey : Pratunam
55. Somerset Grand Sukhumvit, 38 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
56. Centrepoint Lumpini, 38 Storey : Langsuan
57. Bangkok Metropolitan Tower, 37+27+27 Storey : Dindaeng
60. Hotel Sukhumvit 27, 37 Storey : Sukhumvit
61. Urbana Sathorn, 37 Storey : Sathorn
62. Royal Crown, 37 Storey : Rajprasong
63. The Madison, 37 Storey : Sukhumvit 39
64. The Fullerton, 37 Storey : Sukhumvit 61
65. THAIBEV Tower, 36 Storey : Silom
66. Riverside Garden Marina, 36+36+36 Storey : Riverside
69. Asoke Complex, 36 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
70. National Energy Complex, 36+25 Storey : Northern Corridor
72. Jamjuree Residence, 36 Storey : Sukhumvit-39
73. Manhattan, 35 Storey : Pratunam
74. The Park Residence, 35+28 Storey : Chitlom
76. The Trendy Place, 35+19 Storey : Sukhumvit-13
78. Royal Maneeya Tower, 35 Storey : Sukhumvit-Rajprasong
79. Lumpini Place Narathiwas-Chaophraya, 35+35+35 Storey : Rama III-Riverside
82. Le’ raffine III, 34 Storey : Sukhumvit-39
83. Park Avenue, 34 Storey : Silom-Saladaeng
84. Baan Siri 24, 34 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
85. Le Pied Atere, 34 Storey : Langsuan
86. Crowne Plaza Sukhumvit, 34 Storey : Sukhumvit-27
87. COMLINK Tower II, 34 Storey : Northern Corridor
88. Sathorn Terrace, 34 Storey : Sathorn
89. Baan Rajprasong, 34 Storey : Sukhumvit-Rajprasong
90. Prinsiri Rajprarop, 34+25 Storey : Rajprarop
92. Supalai Riverplace, 34 Storey : Riverside
93. Condominium Sukumvit 26, 33 Storey : Sukhumvit-26
94. Sofitel Sukhumvit, 33 Storey : Sukhumvit-13
95. Andaman Place, 33 Storey : Sukhumvit-11
96. Pramongkutklao Hospital, 33 Storey : Victory Monument
97. NOBLE REMIX, 33+11 Storey : Sukhumvit-36
99. 340 Keys Hotel, 33 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
100. Janhomm Towers, 32+22 Storey : Dusit
102. The Colony, 32 Storey : Sukhumvit-11
103. 39 Tower, 32 Storey : Sukhumvit-39
104. Royal Saladaeng, 32 Storey : Silom-Saladaeng
105. Siri Residence, 32 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
106. The Waterfront, 30 Storey : Rama III-Riverside
107. Rasa Tower II, 30 Storey : Northern Corridor
108. Millennium Hotel Sukhumvit, 30+9 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
110. Le’ Raffine II, 30 Storey : Sukhumvit-31
111. Supalai Casa Riva, 30+30+27+27 Storey : Riverside
115. Sathorn Grand Terrace, 30 Storey : Sathorn
116. St. Louis Grand Terrace, 30 Storey : Sathorn
117. The Residence Sukhumvit 55, 30 Storey : Sukhumvit-55
118. Lumpini Place Pahol-Saphan Kwai, 29+29 Storey : Paholyothin
120. Lumpini Place Ratchada-Thapra, 29+29 Storey Tha Pra
122. Nusasiri Ekkamai, 28+24 Storey : Sukhumvit-40
124. Sukhumvit City Resort, 28 Storey : Sukhumvit-11
125. Master Centrium, 28 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
126. Baan Klang Krung Siam-Pathumwan, 28+27 Storey : Pathumwan
128. Station Hotel, 28 Storey : Sukhumvit-Prakanong
129. Chem-Ou Education Center, 27 Storey : Sri-Ayudhya
130. G.M. Height, 27 Storey : Sukhumvit-20
131. The Metropolis, 27 Storey : Sukhumvit-20
132. Indo-Thai Tower, 26 Storey : Sukhumvit-20
133. The Height, 26 Storey : Sukhumvit-55
134. B.H. Nerve Building, 26 Storey : Sukhumvit-1
135. Mackenna Apartment, 26 Storey : Pathumwan
136. The Zest, 26 Storey : Northern Corridor
137. Ekkamai Condo, 25 Storey : Sukhumvit-61
138. Four Wings Hotel, 25 Storey : Srinakarin
139. The Ritz Hotel, 25 Storey : RuamRuedee
140. City Home Sukhumvit, 25 Storey : Sukhumvit 101
141. Baan Siri Silom, 25 Storey : Sathorn-Silom
142. East Water Tower, 25 Storey : Northern Corridor
143. Lumpini Ville Ramkamhaeng 44, 24+24 Storey : Eastern Corridor
145. Centric Scene, 24 Storey : Aree
146. Noble Lite, 24 Storey : Aree
147. Rama III Residence, 24 Storey : Rama III
148. The Lights, 24 Storey : Northern Corridor
149. Platinum Fashion Mall, 24 Storey : Pratunam
150. Siam@Siam Hotel and Spa, 24 Storey : Pathumwan
151. Baan Siri 31, 24 Storey : Sukhumvit-31
152. The Charisma, 24+24 Storey : Sukhumvit-61
154. The Vogue, 24 Storey : Phayathai
155. Premsiri Boutique Park, 23 Storey : Northern Corridor
156. Vista Garden, 23+17 Storey : Sukhumvit-71
157. Vasu The Residence, 23 Storey : Sukhumvit-55
158. Le Meridien Bangkok, 23 Storey : Silom
159. Vichaiyuth Hospital, 23 Storey : Samsen
160. Pipatsin Tower, 22 Storey : Sathorn
161. Belle Park Residence, 22+22+22+22+22+22+22 Storey : Rama III
168. The Wishire, 22 Storey : Sukhumvit-20
169. 7-11 HQ, 21 Storey : Sathorn
170. Novotel King Power, 21 Storey : Victory Monument
171. The Star Estate @ Narathiwas, 21+21 Storey : Rama III
173. Life@BTS Thapra, 20 Storey : Tha Pra
174. Theptarin Hospital, 20 Storey : Rama IV
175. The Loft Yennakart, 20 Storey : Sathorn
176. Bangkok View Tower, 20 Storey : Sukhumvit-31
177. THE FENIX 31, 20 Storey : Sukhumvit-31
178. ICICK, 19 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
179. TV 5 Tower, 19 Storey : Victory Monument
180. Inspire Rama IX, 19+19 storey : Eastern Corridor
182. Bangkok Christian College, 18 Storey : Sathorn
183. The 8th Residence, 18 Storey : Sukhumvit-8
184. Bangkok Christian Hospital, 18+13 Storey : Silom
186. Queens Park View Tower, 17 Storey : Sukhumvit-24
187. Siriraj Hospital LAB-IT MED, 17 Storey : Pinklao
188. Prime Mansion 31, 16 Storey : Sukhumvit-31
189. Bobae Bamrung Muang, 16 Storey : Bobae
190. The Pearl, 16 Storey : Sukhumvit-60
191. Park Plaza Hotel Sukhumvit, 15 Storey : Sukhumvit-Asoke
192. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel, 15 Storey : Ratchdamri

February 10, 2008 at 1:42 am |
I think we can all relate to that.
February 10, 2008 at 4:14 pm |
Werewolf,
Check out this article on the Financial Post regarding expats who live in Asia.
This one paragraph even mentions the Pent club…
“The temptations in Asia are greater than elsewhere. In cities like Taipei, Beijing, Hong Kong and Bangkok, the sex industry centres on business districts and hotels. A single man will almost always receive unsolicited calls in his hotel room, and local bars like Pent Exclusive Club in Bangkok have developed an exclusive clientele by inviting university-educated women seeking foreign or “fareng” husbands to flirt with the men at the bar.”
http://www.financialpost.com/money/story.html?id=296077
February 10, 2008 at 5:24 pm |
I had no idea this sort of thing went on. Now if I was a single man with free time and plenty of dosh…….. hang on, ermm…. back later.
February 10, 2008 at 8:35 pm |
docbond: Someone hasn’t been paying attention in class!
See http://bargirlsrpeople2.wordpress.com/2008/01/18/why-i-became-a-member-at-the-pent-club/
http://bargirlsrpeople2.wordpress.com/2008/02/07/i-cant-hear-you/
February 17, 2008 at 5:54 pm |
[...] an honourable mention is Werewolf’s Growing, Changing City. It’s an interesting look at the economics of urban growth and explains why places like Soi Cowboy and your other favorite Sukhumvit haunts may not be able to [...]